Katsuji Yamede's Kimono Art

In a time when kimonos are so rarely worn or sold, Katusuji Yamade's dedication to this art form is commendable. During my visit to his studio, he describes the frustrations and struggles of working in a field that in the span of a few short years, has become antiquated and lost in a country that values tradition so highly. Once the typical attire of all Japanese, kimonos have now almost disappeared from daily life. 

As a result, most rozome artists have moved away from kimonos in favor of creating panels or tableau that more closely resemble the fine art paintings of the Western world. While Yamade-san is still dedicated to his kimono work; in order to survive,  he has also had to follow the example of his peers in creating paintings instead of garments.

It is frustrating to him however that his panels are often cited as art while his kimonos are considered craft. Looking down at his hands, he says that these same hands went into making both pieces—yet one work is accepted in an art exhibition, while the other is rejected as a common day object. 

Yamade attributes this distinction between art and craft to the influence of the West during the nineteenth century. Before that time there was no separation between the two in Japan and the work of artists and craftsmen alike was described as “kogei.” During the Vienna exposition in 1873 however, Japan found it necessary to create the word “bijutsu” to describe the style of art at the exposition while the word “craft” was then adapted to explain the other aspect of Japanese kogei.  In this way kimonos were separated from fine art to become simple craft.

Seikiko Yamade—his wife and fellow artist explains that contemporary artists look down on craft not because it serves a function (as I have always thought), but because it is too restrictive. There are simply too many rules and limits in craft compared to art.

It is interesting that what defines art today is ease of creation and wild creativity. While free expression is all well and good, I question whether this just means that artists have become too lazy to create the meticulous and intricate items they shun as craft? I have seen the trend throughout art history and in individual artists to move from carefully and concisely made pieces to works of wild abandon. The intricate paintings of the Renaissance for example have given way to the abstract forms, uncontrolled rendering and strange new mediums of today. Has the definition of Art become exactly the OPPOSITE of what it used to be? Is fine art defined by a LACK of control and skill? In short, why are kimonos no longer considered art?